Routes des Grandes Alpes Day 2

Routes des Grandes Alpes Day 2

June 1, 2013

I didn't include these images from last night's dinner at one of the few open restaurants in Valberg.  We were their only customers, but the food was really good.  We had honey pork ribs, fries, and salad.   And a friend came to join us .  .  .

The owner's dog sat at my feet during the entire dinner and let me pet her.  Aww.  Most of the restaurants we went to in Paris allows dogs.

No one that we encountered in Valberg spoke English, so we had to get by on Dan's broken French.  He has been able to order our meals and speak to the servers pretty well most of the time.  Good job, Dan.

Speaking of restaurants, France rarely serves dinner before 7:30 and the dinner is always more than an hour and often times two hours.   I think I mentioned that in an earlier blog.   We have had a difficult time getting used to that schedule.  That means dinner is not over until at least 9 and more often later than that.

Other than that, I have liked almost every other thing about France.  Most French people are very friendly and polite.   Everyone greets you with "Bonjour".  The food is usually exceptional and there is always something interesting to do or see.   I have learned to speak some French these past few weeks.  You have to learn some to get by. 

Now on to Day 2 on our Routes des Grandes Alpes.

Yesterday, June 1st, we left Valberg around 9 AM after a breakfast at the hotel.  

Leaving Valberg

This was the day we would find out if we would be able to go through the first mountain pass, the "Col du Cayolle ".  "Col" means mountain pass.  Mountain passes are near the peak of the mountain where roads have been constructed, but are closed for most of the year because of the harsh weather conditions near the top.  Even in June, the roads are often too icy or there is too much snow.

Lots of tunnels along the way to Col du Cayolle

Glacial springs are abundant

As we were climbing on the mountain roads, we got out of the car from time to time to take photos, if there was a place to pull out.  Often times, we were unable to stop to take photos of the most scenic places because the roads were so narrow and there was nowhere to pull over with the car.   When there is something that I just had to photograph and the road is too narrow, I take the picture from the car.  Not the best, but better than nothing.

Dan looking at the mountains

As we continued along, we saw a sign by the side of the road that read "Source Var".  We learned that this was the source of the River Var that runs through southern France and through the Alps.   I thought it was really interesting because I have never seen a river source before.  I guess they do begin high in the mountains!

Source of the River Var

Another surprise for us was the weather.  Even with the elevation, the weather was warmer than when we were in Paris.  I had on a light sweater and was comfortable.  It must have been in the 60s for that part of the day-I'm guessing around 10:30 AM.

There were very few cars on the road in the morning.  We only saw one or two all the way up to Col du Cayolle.

One of the few cars along the way

We kept on driving and increasing in elevation until we reached Col de Cayolle, the first mountain pass.  We were very happy to find that this one was open and we could drive through.   But we were not expecting what we saw.

This one looks like a volcano from the past.

As we approached the pass, the road became a very small single lane with walls of snow on both sides.  It's a good thing we were the only ones up there on the pass because I don't know how  we would both be able to get through at least on parts of the pass.  I couldn't even open the door for a photo in many places.

Hope there is not another car around this bend.

A marmot crossed the road in front of us.  Too late to get a photo.

Who would possibly drive on a road like this?

.

There's someone.  We'll try not to hit him.

You could practically reach out and touch the top of this great mountain.

A little past the peak, there was a house.

At least we could see a little of the road ahead.

Beginning of the descent

Today is June 1st, 2013, and this is what we see.

Descending

Roads still narrow, but at least you can see ahead of you.

Maybe not.

Riding kind of close to the mountainside

Glacial melt

Approaching Barcelonnette just in time for lunch

A Saturday morning market

Which one should we choose for lunch?  OK, Cafe de La Paix.  We sat outside and it was warm.  Note the bike on the right of photo.

We are learning to read menus.

A friendly man with his bike who we met while eating outside at the cafe. 

I didn't know there were so many varieties of olives.

The vendor was closing, but made time to sell us some marinated sun-dried tomatoes.  They were very good and spicy!

After lunch, we headed out again hoping we would get to go through another pass.  We don't scare easily.   Along the way, there was some really picturesque scenery. 

Lots of Alpine fields with flowers

Going to the next mountain pass, the "Col du Vars"

We were really disappointed-it was not anything like the previous pass.

Where's the snow?   No glaciers here.  Where did they go?

We were disappointed that the pass was not like the previous one, but happy that we at least got to go through Col du Cayolle.    Dan looked at the map and thought the next stop should be Briancon, which is also the highest town in Europe.   

Briancon  is a great fortress town, walled and fortified by Vauban to defend the region from Austrians in the 17th century and it's really interesting to see. The town has two parts: the lower town is at the junction of the Durance and Guisane rivers, and the upper town is the walled area at the top, fortified by Vauban and including the Fort du Chateau fortress at the peak. 

Entering historic area of Briancon in the upper town

A gargouille is a small canal that runs down the center of the street. The only two towns in France with gargouilles  are St. Martin Vesubie in the Alpes-Maritimes and Briançon. We have been to both now.    Maybe our claim to fame?

We were in St. Martin Vesubie on May 31st.  I posted this photo a few days ago.

Historic part of Briancon

As we were leaving the historic part, we heard church bells and crowds cheering.

A wedding!

Fun watching the bride and groom

That was last night.  We had dinner at one of the restaurants in the historic area.  Dan and I agreed that it was the worst meal of the trip.  Oh, well.  No complaints here.   It had been a pretty darn good day.  We had been to the top of the world, or at least as close as one can get without actually flying.